Home > Customs > Member Customs > Custom Figures > Custom Figure Painting Tutorial by MIKED
Custom Figure Painting Tutorial by MIKED

Custom Figure Painting Tutorial by MIKED

 

Next, choose your desired color for the pupils and thin this down appropriately. For this you want to make sure that only the tip of the brush has paint on it so brush off any excess on your palette and make sure you point the brush while doing so. Carefully paint in the pupils on both eyes making sure that they are even and equal in size. I usually leave a bit of white space under the pupil . It sometimes has the affect of the figure looking up a bit, but it cuts down on the blank stare look that sometimes occurs when the pupil fills the eye from lid to lid.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The next step is to take some thinned brown paint and line the upper eyelid with it. This is probably the most difficult and frustrating part of the painting of the eyes, but it is necessary to achieve realism. The line can and should be touched up with the flesh tone and the pupil with the white, etc. to tighten all of this up. Again, the important thing to remember is to keep the paint the thin so that no matter how many coats you have to layer in touch ups you don’t get any clumps or unwanted build up. Be patient and be careful and you’ll do fine.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once everything is touched up and tightened to your satisfaction you can paint in the eyebrows using the same basic rules. Remember, don’t worry if you don’t get it perfect the first try (I NEVER do). Painting is all about painting a line and then painting it back. In other words pain the line and then sharpen and tighten it by painting it back with the flesh tone. If your paint is properly thinned you should be able to repeat this process over and over without nasty build up or clumping.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once the details are completed I give the entire figure (the legs still seperated from the hips) a generous coat of Testor’s Dullcoat. The reason for this is threefold. First, some of the paints that I mixed together have a bit of a sheen to them and I want a nice even finish on the figure before I begin shading. Secondly, I want to make sure that the joints are fully sealed and protected before I bend them to expose the unpainted portions. Once the figure has completely cured (after several hours or even over night) I will bend the joints and paint the previously unexposed portions and seal those areas accordingly. Thirdly, pastel dust will not stick to ANY glossy surface so the application of the Dullcoat is actually a preparatory step for the shading. What is pastel dust, you ask? Read on….

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8471 Total Views 1 Views Today

About Ian Walker

Just a stay at home dad, part time internet troll, and amateur photographer, with delusions of grandeur and a love for 1:18th scale toys.

Leave a Reply