Paint Brands

Talisman

They Call me Sonic.
Jun 15, 2012
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Hey guys, I recently invested in my first set of brushes and paints (Model Master) and quickly realized that I picked up the wrong colors altogether, and so I'll be returning them shortly.

While I'm at it, I'm wondering if I should be investing in any brand in particular. I'm aware that many of us have our own preferences and each brand has its strengths, weaknesses, and color variety, and the go-to brand seems to be the Testor Model Master series; however, a friend of mine swears by the Reaper brand as his paint of choice.

I'm looking for something durable, flexible (as in the surfaces and plastics it can be applied to), and with a wide selection of colors.
 

Mswi

Teabagging Ninja
Feb 16, 2012
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Reapers good, testors not bad but my preference is citadel. Thins well, goes on well, nice coverage and nice selection of colors, and they're not glossy.
 

The Willoughbian

Proletariat Art Threat
Jun 24, 2012
781
2
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Cleveland, Ohio
You can't go wrong with Model Master. Stays flexible on web gear and resists joint rub.
For metallics, I like Tamyia. Just know that it doesn't hold to the softer PVC (arms/web gear) so well.
 

Obi-Shinobi

Pioneer, Damn It!
Apr 6, 2011
2,370
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York, PA
They all vary to degrees. I use Tamiya and Citadel primarily, with a little Model Masters thrown in. 99% of the time, I've never had any problems with adhesion. I've also found that letting your paint dry for at least 8 hrs before handling or applying additional layers really helps. Doing this, I rarely have any paint rub problems, even on most joints. But that's my experience, so far.

All in all, you need to take advice from others experience, and then experiment with a few things. Find what's best for you, and how you want to use it. You might end up with several brands in the end.
 

Talisman

They Call me Sonic.
Jun 15, 2012
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All in all, you need to take advice from others experience, and then experiment with a few things. Find what's best for you, and how you want to use it. You might end up with several brands in the end.

That's why I'm coming to you guys first.
 

Cloud Strife

Mako Infused SOLDIER
Apr 16, 2011
3,394
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Midgar
I primarily use Testors' Model Master along with their Poly Scale Floquil line. I guess I'm a Testors fanboy. I do use P3 paints as well.
 

Mswi

Teabagging Ninja
Feb 16, 2012
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I primarily use Testors' Model Master along with their Poly Scale Floquil line. I guess I'm a Testors fanboy. I do use P3 paints as well.

, you like more than just one brand?? hmmmm, doesn't seem like you:)



I
 
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G.I.*EDDIE

gobbles a LOT of cock
Founder
Mar 14, 2011
43,432
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S.E. Mich :(
Don't use enamals on Joes!...well, not the softer parts at least...the paint will never cure on the softer/rubberier plastic and will feel tacky forever...

Just in case you didn't already know that
 

Talisman

They Call me Sonic.
Jun 15, 2012
315
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Don't use enamals on Joes!...well, not the softer parts at least...the paint will never cure on the softer/rubberier plastic and will feel tacky forever...

Just in case you didn't already know that

Well, that'll be useful information to someone.:)
 

Talisman

They Call me Sonic.
Jun 15, 2012
315
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So, picked up a starter set of Citadel paints from my local GW store yesterday while I was taking my introductory course to Plastic Crack 40K- however it does not include, nor did I think to buy, primer. Hopefully this will not come back to bite me in the ass.

And maybe I'm a descendant of the House of Carolingian.
 

Mswi

Teabagging Ninja
Feb 16, 2012
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So, picked up a starter set of Citadel paints from my local GW store yesterday while I was taking my introductory course to Plastic Crack 40K- however it does not include, nor did I think to buy, primer. Hopefully this will not come back to bite me in the ass.

And maybe I'm a descendant of the House of Carolingian.

your safe. for me personally primer is good for cast parts or when attempting to paint a dark colored part in a light shade. the best thing you can do is thoroughly wash the figure in warm soapy water with an old toothbrush before painting to remove any mold release