Wry1-Ripcord WIP

Wry1

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I never post wip pix but...I dunno, just want some feedback before I finalize the piece and proceed with paints. My main concern is where the hell to attach his M4. Sooo many options, I kinda dig it attached to the backpack, but I'm kinda hesitant to pull the trigger, not sure why.

Thoughts?

Oh, I'm a fucktard and the first pic is the only one showing the M72LAW attached, the rest you only see a super awesome pin hole....photo fail.



 

Cloud Strife

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Apr 16, 2011
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Wry, that is seriously an awesome custom. The choice of parts is phenomenal as their is so much gear. Now, I don't know crap about how HALO jumpers carry their gun when diving, so I can't help you out there, but with your painting ability, this thing is going to be nothing short of phenomenal when finished.
 

Midget

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I want to say it's in a bag attached to their leg or side, near where you have it in every pic but the first. It looks fantastic by the way
 

lancelot

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I'm diggin the gear he's using. Nice design of the figure. I don't know if you want to let all his gear be pitch black though. Not that I'm saying it could use neon orange or green, but I think some touch ups on his gear with other colors such as grey (or something that would fit the realistic aesthetic) would really improve his overall look while not leaving him vulnerable to looking bland.
 

Monkeywrench

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did a quick Google search... it seems that most halo jumpers have the gun attached to their pack, pretty much even with where their belt would be.
 

Rick

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Laughing out loud as to how sweet that is. Took your time with details for sure.

The bbi fig Lynch who is a Delta Para jumper has the weapon bag (seen as part of my SEAL Team 6 Low Light) and in pics i've seen it's slung on shoulder somehow. The unimax paratroopers come with that bag also.

I agree on maybe adding some other dark colors like a grey or black green.

F----g sweet Dude!
 

Wry1

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Thanks for the comments and suggestions fellers, much appreciated! Too the peeps thinking the all black is a bit bland, you are correct, totally bland. I always paint figs all black as a base coat, then layer/drybrush/wash colors on from there. The end result will be a desert pallet.
 

fogger1138

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I'm just learning to paint, so apologies if this is a stupid question, but I thought you were supposed to paint dark over light, not light over dark? Everytime I try light colors over dark colors it looks awful.
 

Cloud Strife

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Using black as a primer allows more detail to show in the lower lying areas if you're dry-brushing as it gives it a shadow effect and a general more realistic look. Also, like Midget said, it will usually make the colors a little darker if you're just painting like normal. Another technique is to prime it with a dark color, dry brush with white and then paint. It helps contrast the higher and lower lying areas.
 

Wry1

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I'm just learning to paint, so apologies if this is a stupid question, but I thought you were supposed to paint dark over light, not light over dark? Everytime I try light colors over dark colors it looks awful.

Dark colors over light may seem quicker and easier, the colors just don't come out as rich because they don't have that dark, opaque base. The most simple key to painting smooth, rich colors is patience. It's all about layers, multiple layers. Painting multiple layers over a dark base will result in a...not darker, but essentially a true representation of what the color is intended to be.

I use mainly Model Masters paints, even out of the bottle I dilute the paint with a few drops of distilled water, just so it's a bit thinner and smoother. 3-5 layers of paint is not uncommon, the results are justifiable.

Also when you're drybrushing you always have a darker base coat and then gradually apply lighter colors over that, so that the recessed areas give a more dynamic shadow effect, and the lighter areas give a more dynamic highlighted effect.

Again patience is key with layers. I have the attention span of a goldfish on meth, so I generally try to work on at least 3-4 customs at a time, just cuz...well, fuck watching paint dry.
 

Wry1

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Using black as a primer allows more detail to show in the lower lying areas if you're dry-brushing as it gives it a shadow effect and a general more realistic look. Also, like Midget said, it will usually make the colors a little darker if you're just painting like normal. Another technique is to prime it with a dark color, dry brush with white and then paint. It helps contrast the higher and lower lying areas.

Lol! And that...I type slow, dammit.
 

Rick

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Dark colors over light may seem quicker and easier, the colors just don't come out as rich because they don't have that dark, opaque base. The most simple key to painting smooth, rich colors is patience. It's all about layers, multiple layers. Painting multiple layers over a dark base will result in a...not darker, but essentially a true representation of what the color is intended to be.

I use mainly Model Masters paints, even out of the bottle I dilute the paint with a few drops of distilled water, just so it's a bit thinner and smoother. 3-5 layers of paint is not uncommon, the results are justifiable.

Also when you're drybrushing you always have a darker base coat and then gradually apply lighter colors over that, so that the recessed areas give a more dynamic shadow effect, and the lighter areas give a more dynamic highlighted effect.

Again patience is key with layers. I have the attention span of a goldfish on meth, so I generally try to work on at least 3-4 customs at a time, just cuz...well, fuck watching paint dry.

You know it's funny, but I felt the new SEAL Team 6 customs I made were painted over Shock troopers and ninjas and the base color I painted over looked better than most before where I painted over light colors. Think I may evolve into this method.

Dammit wry1 I was going to steal you idea and started to put together parts to make a desert version thinking you were going with evening wear. :rolleyes:
 

lance858a

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I like the look of the riffle attached to the front bag per pic #2 and #4, but how do real life HALO jumpers do it? I imagine that having it strapped in front can be dangerous b/c if the hit they ground like that, the riffle can cause injury to the jumper.

Looks bad ass btw and I'm looking forward to seeing the final product.
 
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Wry1

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threw some basic paints on, gonna wait 'till I get the 'chute from the client to finish up the details.
 

Rick

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Looking sweet!!

Love that team.

What head sculpt is the blond guy in the cap? Is that cap seperate?
 

lancelot

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I like the direction your taking with his aesthetic.
 

Wry1

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Looking sweet!!

Love that team.

What head sculpt is the blond guy in the cap? Is that cap seperate?

Head sculpt is from SDS. I think it was intended to be Outback (had a bandanna and a much scruffier beard before I put him under the knife.), gonna use him for RnR though.

The hat looks kinda weird in that pic. I was midway through sculpting it when I got an email from my client requesting update pics, sooo...yeah.

Oh, and no the hat isn't removable. Removable hats always look goofy to me, like the fabric is an inch thick. Haven't figured a way around that yet.
 

Slaymaker

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Its the Private Military Contractor (PMC) sculpt from Slayer. I used it on my RnR as well... I just left the bandana though. :D

It looks great with a hat on...I may have to order another.
 

Wry1

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Its the Private Military Contractor (PMC) sculpt from Slayer. I used it on my RnR as well... I just left the bandana though. :D

It looks great with a hat on...I may have to order another.

Ah, gotcha. Gotta say this head sculpt is fantastic, sooo many details. Really stoked to get going on RnR again.
 

G.I.*EDDIE

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that Rip is looking great Wry!...

and i gotta echo what others have said, that R&R head is crazy awesome...possibly the best Joe head i've ever seen...seriously...i'm guessing your mods and paint helped with that